A tasty business

Not all of Balzer's advice is heeded. Alarmed at the rising number of consumers eating in their cars, he urged fast-food companies to make their offerings easier to eat while driving, noting that burger condiments invariably ooze out the sides and pizza toppings frequently slide off the slices. Balzer also recommended that auto makers install food trays as well as cup holders in cars. There were no takers. "No one wants to promote eating in the car because of the liability issue," he says.

THE MOST SURPRISING news of the 1998 report, says Balzer, is that "for the first time, alcohol appears on dinner tables more frequently than coffee." The percentage of people who have a drink with dinner has been steadily rising since 1990. The trend is being driven primarily by those aged 45 and older, who've been reading that a drink a day may help protect against heart disease. In this group, the percentage of those who have a daily drink has nearly doubled, from 10% in 1990 to 19% last year. "That age group tends to glom onto health trends faster than anybody else," Balzer explains. "It was true of low-sodium and low-fat diets. They are always looking for an easier way--other than eating less and exercising more to better health."

Balzer believes the uptick in drinks with dinner also signals another significant shift in our habits: rather than subtracting unhealthy foods or ingredients from the diet, we now prefer to add health-promoting ones. The percentage of people who take a daily vitamin, mineral supplement, herbal product or other dietary aid has hit a new peak: 45%. "I tell my clients, if you put something good in your food, tell consumers about it," Balzer advises.

WHAT DO THE FINDINGS say about coffee? Not that alcohol is replacing java. Rather it reflects coffee's basic problem: it's inconvenient. "You have to make it," says Balzer. Americans increasingly want things that are either easier or cheaper. Coffee is neither and its intake at home has held steady over the years.

The convenience factor is also what's spurring the hottest food trend of the decade: home replacement meals. For the uninitiated, that's industry jargon for take-out foods sold in restaurants and grocery stores. The average American household brings home a restaurant meal about once every 10 days, compared to once every 20 days during the mid-1980s. "This has been a trend for as long as I have been looking at the data," says Balzer. "We still eat most of our meals at home because of budgetary restrictions. But we try not to cook. And if we have to cook, we try not to make anything from scratch." Dinners that include at least one home made item are continuing to slump, he notes, and one-dish meals are on the rise.

LOOKING 100 YEARS INTO the future, Balzer predicts that the number of people who are on a diet will be similar to the current figure: one-third of all women and one-quarter of men will still be bemoaning their weight. Myriad diet plans have been in and out of favor over the past 15 years, Balzer notes, but "these numbers have not budged." Where he does forsee a difference is in food preparation. Indeed, he predicts that the way we prepare our foods will change more than what foods we eat. The kitchen of the next century, says, Balzer, will have more warming and heating than cooking appliances, continuing a trend that started with the introduction of the microwave. "That's another thing I tell my clients," he declares. "Don't ever underestimate how lazy people can be."

TRACKING EATING PATTERNS

FOR ITS CREST (Consumer Reports on Eating Share Trends) survey, NPD culls a mailing list of 300,000 names (gathered from telephone directories, automobile registrations and other sources) I and invites 13,000 families to fill out a form covering foods eaten in the household during a two-week period. There are columns for each family member (usually the mother completes the survey) in which to record meals eaten at restaurants as well as at school, hospitals, employee cafeterias and also at home. For meals taken in restaurants, NPD tracks the name of the eatery, its category (fast food, for example), the meal's cost and what was ordered (NPD assigns numbers to 250 categories of food and beverages, everything from boiled shellfish to croissants).

About 3,000 of the CREST households are asked to participate in the more detailed National Eating Trends (NET) survey. Respondents complete forms noting the ingredients, label, brand and site of purchase of every ingredient in every dish they eat at home as well as which appliance they used to prepare the food and the size of the portion they consumed. The results are mailed to NPD every two weeks. Participants receive no money, but are rewarded with gifts, such as clocks and cookware.

How reliable are these food journals? "When I do it on a ill, daily basis, it's quite accurate," maintains Katie Wagner. "But if I slip up and miss a day, it's not as accurate." The very act of keeping a food diary can change behavior "If I've already written down what we're going to eat for dinner and my husband calls up and says, 'Let's take the family out,' I tell him to forget it, I'm not going to erase it," notes Ingrid Frisinger, a Michigan housewife.

Tags: american consumers, behavior, breakfast lunch, burger king, eating, enumclaw washington, fast food restaurants, food, food giants, food products, kaleb, katie wagner, npd group, nutrition, pickle, pickles, pillsbury, social worker, stackers, supermarket shelves, trends, two boys, waitress, writing exercise

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