Dispatch from dreamland

What was I going to encounter in Rachel and Groom Lake? According to George Friedman, director of research at Baton Rouge's Strategic Forecasting LLC and author of The Future of War (Crown), I was heading to a strange place. The fractured hall of mirrors you find in the UFO field may have more to do with the Cold War than close encounters. In fact, says Friedman, it can be traced back to a single starting point, a single moment in time: the morning of December 7, 1941, when the Japanese bombed Pearl Harbor:

"They planned it in secret end they smashed us. From that moment on we've been obsessed with secrecy. And then our scientists invented the atomic bomb and won World War II. [We had] all these soldiers fighting, and some pencil-necked geeks came up with a weapon that made the soldiers irrelevant. America decided it had to stockpile scientists. Spend what you want, but give us weapons in secrecy." Thus the marriage of science, industry, and the military at sites like Area 51.

But secrecy tends to blast away accountability (see "Secret Science & Criminal Acts," at right). And it's the perfect foil for conspiracy theories. In one sense, UFOs fit into that good old American conspiracy tradition that would have Martin Luther King Jr. and JFK shot by aliens paid by Congress under orders from the CIA.

Is it any coincidence that flying saucers first appeared shortly after the Cold War began--in dune of 1947, when pilot Kenneth Arnold saw nine bright discs in the sky near Mount Rainier in Washington? Says Friedman, "There's no limit on our imaginations. We already know what amazing things have come out of secret projects. These scientists seem like magicians working black magic in the desert.

They already seem to playing with the very substance of nature and producing these terrible weapons. Go back to the very ancient myth of the Faustian pact. We've decided that scientists and the government are in league with the devil, in order to gain knowledge of the entire universe. And there you have Roswell. Aliens landed. Scientists made a deal."

Did scientists make a deal? Conspiracy theorists reason that the government kept ETs a secret to prevent the kind of mass hysteria once generated by Orson Welles's War of the Worlds. "This is a land of 30-year mortgages," says Dean Radin, Ph.D., chair of the Vegas conference, director of the Consciousness Research Laboratory at the University of Nevada, and author of The Conscious Universe (HarperCollins). "People want security."

"It may turn out there is a devil and they did make a pact," says Friedman. "But from what I know of the Air Force they would shriek at the top of their lungs, `Aliens have landed, we need $50 billion to build anti-alien ships.' It would be a budgetary coup of mammoth proportions."

Friedman isn't the only one concerned about government secrecy. In March of this year, New York Senator Daniel Patrick Moynihan gave a speech at Georgetown University noting that excess government secrecy had accelerated conspiracy theories involving the government. And Congress announced that it will hold a hearing to review America's system of government secrecy in the post-Cold War period. No wonder: The federal Information Security Oversight Office has estimated that the government created about 6.8 million official secrets last year.

OFFSHORE ISLAND OF THE SOUL

At last I arrive in Rachel--though I only know because 40 tin mailboxes mounted on wooden posts suddenly pop out of the emptiness. An American flag flies near one of the two houses in "town." The other residents live in trailers like the banana-colored one that boasts a sign, Area 51 Research Center, and a garden of debris recovered from crashed stealth bombers.

The Area 51 Research Center is run by 37-year-old Glenn Campbell, who is wired to the Web and known for his witty news items about UFOs and local lore. Inside I find Steve Phipps, a 39-year-old military buff who has lived here for the last year. He confirms the local legends: People from all over America gather at a certain black mailbox to watch for UFOs, although the rancher who owns the mailbox has since painted it white and plated it with armor. Sightings are frequent, but who can say what is seen? After all, war games are played in the air nearby, says Phipps: "You see the planes and then there's this sonic boom, a wall of sound hitting you."

I thumb through a book on stealth aircraft. They're lethal steel moths, gorgeous, shining, and flat. "These could easily be mistaken for flying saucers."

"And they often are."

We go for a Coke a hundred yards away, at the only restaurant for about 50 miles: the Little A'Le'Inn. It's a converted trailer, operated by Pat and Joe Travis--she overweight with short, cropped hair, he slim and wizened by drink and sun.

"People come here to escape and live by their own rules," says Steve. "But nobody can get along. Glenn is feuding with Pat and Joe. The town patriarch is suffering from Alzheimer's and the matriarch is a southern belle who's as mean as they come. There's a 57-year-old former secretary from Ohio who married a 27-year-old. She killed a man and wants to die in a shoot-out. You should write a piece on the psychology of Rachel."

Tags: alien, area 51, dumping ground, extraterrestrial, flying saucers, government, government conspiracies, nevada desert, UFO, ups, war games

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