Soul in the raw

The soul movement, if it can be called a movement, lays claim to the dignity of the most basic human mystery: that, whether it can be verified or not, we feel something in the nature of being human that is beyond measurement, even beyond wisdom. And we are not prepared to discount that feeling. Perhaps that feeling is what we call "soul"-a feeling that demands we keep in our vocabulary a word no one quite understands.

In this light, even the foolishness of the worst of those soul books seems more forgivable, for even their foolishness is evidence of what we humans do most consistently, most compulsively: grope for a light in the dark.

BRIGHT NIGHT OF THE SOUL

Every language has a word for soul, yet all shy from a precise definition. Soul is clearly a universal experience. But an experience of what? When we try to answer that, we're on our own.

A Vegas assertion if there ever was one.

And if America is a confrontation of absolutes--material and spiritual, violent and free, ancient and new--then Las Vegas speaks to a confrontation of absolutes within me. And what a confrontation is here: a conflict of classic lights and darks, good and evil. The crassness and the glowing beauty of this city are one and the same. (If you don't think it's beautiful, drive into the mountains that overlook it and gaze upon its lights for a while.) Here is both the most up-front commercialism in the world, and the luminous inner longing it seeks to satisfy Here is a shameless cheapness of sexual display, and the beauty of what's being displayed. Here is the stripper who said to me, "Just because you can do any damn thing you want in this wild town--well, man, then you'd better have your own boundaries, and they'd better be really yours, or you'll lose your ever-lovin' soul."

Here life seems to be one great pulsating neon-tinted desire--an American vision if ever there was one. Yet here is a constant reminder of the fragility of it all, how everything can be lost with one spin of the wheel or roll of the dice.

As I said a little too quickly in the beginning: Something there is about the soul that goads one onto unknown, difficult, improbable journeys. For isn't the human journey itself--collectively as well as individually--unknown, difficult, and improbable? With our beautiful and often bizarre variations, with all our mad and maddening behaviors, "replication of DNA" doesn't begin to describe our experience of being human. But the word "soul" does--however vague it may be. We can't escape it. And that may be the most cogent proof of its existence.

In any case it seems to be my soul, rather than my deadline, that keeps me up all night pondering such things. For my part, here on the 19th floor of the Rio, it will be dawn soon, and that's the only time I really enjoy gambling. The Rio's casino will be almost empty and subdued; its diminished din of slot machines, canned music and scraps of talk will seem to come from farther off, even if you're standing in the middle of it--though the cocktail waitresses will be flashing just as much flesh, the dealers' eyes will be just as inscrutable, and the odds will be with the house, as they are at any hour, anywhere. At dawn in Vegas the neon starts to fade, and as the sun rises the signs flicker off in an irregular pattern all over town. There is the sense that souls have been lost again in the night. Certain dawns here, the air feels thick with them. Some have won their wager with Satan, some have lost, and some have turned down the deal.

But they keep coming here anyway, longing for something--and longing is soul energy. So I'll go indulge a bit of longing, play some roulette, and drink a little Glenlivet, Joseph Campbell's favorite brand of Scotch. I'll toast all who've lost or found something that corresponds to that odd word which has no final definition--that word which calls into question all definitions, and by its very existence, invites us to explore and test our limits.

Thus a roulette wheel where there's no limit on your bet is, in its way, a soulful thing.

PHOTOS (COLOR): LAS VEGAS

BY MICHAEL VENTURA

Michael Ventura's biweekly column appears in The Austin Chronicle. His novel, The Death of Frank Sinatra, was recently published by Holt.

Tags: America, assertions, back seat, bandwagon, books, fad, glare, glitter, henry miller, improbable journeys, james hillman, Joseph Campbell, Las Vegas, materialist, midst, s box, sampling, soul, soul on fire, southern california, thinkers, viva las vegas, word soul

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