Model existence

Takes a first-ever look at modeling to determine why so many of the women who seem to have it all tend to wind up with so little. Psychotherapists Vivian Diller and Jill Muir-Sukenick, both former models, who both practice in New York City; Why depression often affects former models; The psychological makeup of those drawn to the field; Their narcissistic vulnerability. INSETS: What a dish (Bonnie Pfeifer's company, Dishes, Inc.); Shelley Smith, life after Vogue (interview).

By Hara Estroff Marano, published on May 01, 1994

The modeling profession itself does not allow you to mature. There's a very interesting dynamic between the models and the magazine editors. The magazine editors at Vogue and elsewhere are the ones that really make the star models. When I was a model these were really strong people--Polly Mellon, Diana Vreeland.

PT: Polly Mellon is still going strong.

SS: They were drawn to people not just for their looks but because they were malleable--the models who could project whatever image was in the minds of these very strong women. That does not allow for a strong personality or a well-established sense of self. But at some point, it turns around: once a model is known--today models get more publicity--she makes more of her career for having a personality. Linda Evangelista has a style of her own; that benefits her now.

PT: How did you manage?

SS: I developed a strong personality along the way. The modeling world was wonderful for me because I was very shy--and an ugly duckling. I didn't have a date in high school. I was gawky. To be told that I was beautiful outside was good, because I was eventually able to internalize that. It was wonderful to have the validation of a magazine cover to tell me I was okay.

But at some point I realized I was being hired for jobs also because I was fun to be around or I was responsible. Part of my image and my sense of self had to do with going to college and knowing I was smart. In acting, even though I looked glamorous, I was always cast as an intelligent woman, and that made me realize that it was there.

PT: What insights did modeling give you about appearance?

SS: I still have some connection to looking good. I think all women do. I don't believe in heavy duty plastic surgery for myself, but I go to a facialist and a colorist.

PT: Would you have plastic surgery.?

SS: I think that anything anybody does on the outside that makes them feel better inside--and then allows them to forget about the outside--is great. Someone who feels she looks awful can't really interact with people in a clean way. But if you're comfortable with how you look that day, then you have to forget about it.

I love it if someone says, 'God, you still look good. Vanity Fair recently picked out some of us who had been modeling a number of years ago, and did a beautiful spread. It was fun to have wonderful hair and makeup people make you look great again. But the most horrifying thought in the world would be to have to model full time.

PT: Why?

SS: It wouldn't have the depth that I need in my life right now. How can you compare helping people get their life's dream to standing on a beach and looking pretty'?

I miss the money. What psychololosts make after all those years of school doesn't compare to what models earn for standing there. It doesn't seem that society has worked it out right.